Hatunpa, Arequipa – The Humble Potato, remains very humble

As a vegetarian I was excited to the max when reading about this little nook, with only four tables – a proper little hole in the wall, which is said to serve amazing food, all based on the humble potato.
Due to the fact that the humble potato originates from Peru, and that there are said to be almost 200 varieties of this nation feeder to be found in Peru, what better way to experience the potato in all its glory at Hatunpa, where the owner speaks English fluently and (as expressed in one of the reviews I remember reading) explains the differences in the varieties of potato.

Upon our arrival, we were a little surprised to find that the only person there, who seated and served us, could not speak a word of English! As this was the only person who worked there, we assumed that this was the owner, and confusion set in due to the review of the English speaking owner who loves to explain about potatoes.
We ordered a beer with a little difficulty, and set about ready the menu, a little disappointed that we would not be getting a lecture on the humble potatoes and the hundreds of varieties…

We were busy ordering our meals, and I was trying to get an understanding of a certain thing on the menu the man of the hour walked in and came to the rescue. The English speaking owner existed after all, and he graciously offered us a taste of the unidentifiable, which I was seeking an understanding for when he walked in. This turned out to be purple or black corn juice. Not bad I have to say, but rather sweet – a good alternative for someone that likes Coke or Inka Cola.

 

Unfortunately there was absolutely no explanation regarding the varieties of potatoes or the origin at all. Even after prodding and asking questions such as “we’ve heard that there are up to 200 varieties of potatoes in Peru?!” we only got a “yes, there are many kinds of potatoes and sweet potatoes”.

Service is average best, and I have to say that my idea of a heart-warming potato dish was not what I imagined at all. A plate of cold sliced potato, one regular, and one sweet potato, topped with cubes of tomato and hard little blocks of cheese and what seemed like an entire raw sliced onion. Not quite the oozing melting dish I was expecting at all. This has to be one of my worst vegetarian meals ever.
The other two had better luck, with a chicken and spinach topping with a creamy cheese sauce, and meat cubes with red pepper and onions – unfortunately almost no sauce on this one either.

A casual little corner, with lots of competition.
As far as vegetarian and vegan dishes go – I would avoid this unless you prefer a plate of dry potato and bland flavours.

Definately does not deserve it's number 2 spot on the list of best restaurants in Arequipa.

 

Happy Wednesday to all,

Until we eat again...

Crepisimo, Arequipa – Paper thin crepes oozing with flavour

If you have read a couple of my post on this blog, it is easy to spot that I love a bit of good French food. Crepes are the ultimate street food of French, and when made properly these delicate creations are marvellous.

On my 2 most recent trips to Paris I was utterly disappointed that it was so difficult to find a street vendor of café with a proper freshly baked crepe – mostly the batter was too think, and they were pre-baked and cold.

I could not in my wildest dreams think that I would find a prefect crepe in the middle of a small Peruvian town named Arequipa.

Situated at the entrance of the Alliance Francaise, this 10 table restaurant and bar – with an astounding selection of beers from across the globe is the epitome of excitement. People queue and comeback and queue and sit and eat at the bar. Incredible how such a small amount of people can create such a vibe.

Lovely selection of fillings for the crepes, and you can also create your own should you wish to do so. For the more health conscious they offer a brown batter on any savoury crepes, which is made from a Quinoa type of grain – this brown batter is bursting with flavour and a wonderful alternative to the classic white batter.

For dessert crepes in Peru, they have created their own signature – Dulce de Quinoa, and what a signature this is!

The best way I can think of explaining this, is something between a rice pudding and sweet risotto, delightful and sinfully sweet with the texture of the Quinoa.

The prices are extremely reasonable, service quick – not a lot of English, but they try very hard to assist where they can. And luckily pointing at the Spanish translation on the menu is really not difficult.

Aaah, the nostalgia is taking over and I’m salivating just think of these heavenly mouthfuls.

(PS - we dined here 3 times...twice for dinner, and once for lunch, yummy everytime!)

Until we eat again...

MAP café, Cuzco – Decadent and delicious

 

This is definitely one of my highlights in all of Peru.

Set in the courtyard of the Museum of Art in Cuzco on Plaza del Nazarena,  the elegant glass box is crisp and inviting.

We have read very good reviews on TA about the MAP café, but was not expecting this kind of deliciousness.
Absolutely everything was amazing, from the Pisco Sours (best in Peru!) through to the beautiful freshly baked bread, mains and desserts.

The service is friendly, professional and invasive. So happy that we went for an early lunch, as the restaurant filled up within 30min, and had sad patrons looking through the glass, and having to book for the following day.

 

So most vegetarians eat a lot of pasta, I’m not one of them. In fact I actually really dislike any pasta dish, it’s just a vehicle for sauce… a fattening carb vehicle.

In most restaurant however the vegetarian options are limited to pasta. MAP has a couple of other vegetarian options, but they had me at truffle perfume with this cannelloni. It was divine!!  The best pasta dish I have ever eaten, and probably just one of the top 5 best things I have ever eaten.

Also I have developed a slight obsession with Quinoa, and tried ordering as much Quinoa dishes as possible.

Put Quinoa and Truffle in the same dish and I’m sold. Desperately wishing that I could have that dish in South Africa, which means I’ll just have to practise my cooking skills to get it perfect.

 

The other dishes on the table were the Pork Adobe and the Chilli Pepper stuffed Lamb. Both of these were superb, but nothing compares to the Quinoa Truffle Cannelloni’s.

It was tough not to order all the dessert on offer, but the 3 we selected were the Sacha Inchi, Goat’s Cheese and honey Maki (yes – dessert sushi!!) and the deconstructed Suspiro Lemino. Last mentions was my favourite.

 

We decided to treat ourselves to this amazing culinary glass box on our last evening in Peru as well, but unfortunately they were fully booked – and rightly so.
This chef deserves a Michelin Star, and to be at the top of the TA list in Cuzco.

 

Do not miss this lovely setting and delicious food!

Until we eat again…

Le Soleil, Cuzco - The Fast-food of French cuisine

Aha, finally the time has come – and my fist restaurant is a bit of a shame, which after the owner’s petty comments and bad attitude on tripadvisor, has now turned into a big name and shame!

 

Whenever travelling I always have a look at restaurants on tripadvisor to see real-time opinions and reviews from “real-people”.

This French restaurant in the heart of Cuzco is rated as the number 1 in all of Cuzco – with many people raving about the interior of the restaurant, and claiming that you will struggle to find better French food, even in Paris! Now that is a bold statement to make.

To me this sounded like heaven! I love proper French food, and after traveling for between 24-18 hours, what could be more satisfying than a little bit of lush French cuisine?

 

This massive expectations we walked down the cobblestone street to Le Soleil. We were the only customers there, but thought perhaps we were early and this might be a pro, as it is not packed yet our food would be served a little quicker – we were starving.

 

The host and owner was very friendly and was happy to answer any questions about the menu, which looked rather yummy. And lucky me there was a veggie starter and main.

For starters we had the ginger pumpkin crème with truffle – this was really nice, nothing spectacular and no sign of the promised truffle, but a warming ginger flavour. Snails in butter and herb sauce – which was just that, nothing more, nothing less (presentation was lacking though). And the Avo Swilrs, this is avocado strips rolled and filled with cubed veggies such as tomato, cucumber and aubergine – a little bland, and actually a pretty presented four ingredient salad.

 

Mains were duck breast and I had ratatouille. The duck was nicely cooked, but no lush sauce or veggies to compliment this; and my ratatouille was pretty much a warm version of my starter, substituting the cucumber for baby marrow, and the avo for carrot.

 

Now maybe it’s just me, but I am 100% certain that it’s not, no-one goes to a restaurant and orders a main and expects just a chunk of protein, or a scoop of a cooked vegetables (and this comment is not only regarding Le Soleil – but I might as well rant about it now and get it over with).

Where is the harm in putting a portion of side veggies, salad, potato, sauce on a plate?? That’s right – no harm, in fact only goodness. You are ordering a meal after all. I see this “trend” sticking out it’s ugly little head in all the more restaurants, and frankly I think it’s ridiculous! Stop squeezing the money for your well-paying clients greedy restaurateurs! Tisk tisk tisk!

 

Anyway, back to our evening at Le Soleil. For dessert we had the chocolate fondant as someone on mention this to be the best fondant they’ve ever eaten; and the mango, tonka bean and passion fruit mousse – the passion fruit was super sour, you could taste nothing else, and also did not want to take a second bite for fear of burning a hole in your aorta with the sour acid ( a little dramatic, I know), surely the chef should taste what he puts on a plate? Unfortunately the fondant, which was supposed to be the king of the evening turned out to be a peasant in disguise. No rich chocolate lava flowing out when cutting open… An overcooked fondant for any restaurant is a no-no, and especially for a French restaurant, this is the mother of all no-no’s.

 

So all in all it was not the worst meal I’ve ever had, but most certainly not the best. There is not one thing that we ate that was exceptional or even great. I think due to the fact that this place received such amazing reviews it was an ever bigger disappointment, as we arrived with huge expectations.

In all honesty, the people that commented on that you could not find better French food, even in Paris – I’m having a sneaky feeling that they’ve probably never been to Paris, and the rest of the raving reviews might well be the owner himself, or his close friends… as we were the only table there for the evening. Does this sound like the kind of place that is the best in a city? Empty during the festive season? No, it does not.

 

Do not be fooled, give this a miss when in Cuzco.

 

Until we eat again…

Watch this space for the best and worst of Peru

Dear Reader,

Happiest of happy new year to each and all. Best wish for 2014.

I've been gone a while - but that you know.
I am back, and have a lot of reastaurant to praise and love, and just as many to name and shame.
Its not so much that I've been lazy, more jetlagged, and bombarded with work with immediate effect.
However, as mind is still in a completely different timezone, I will write in the middel of the night.

Soon I will reveal all about the good the bad and the ugly of Peru's restaurants, watch this space.
Patience dear reader, patience...

Untill we eat again...