MAP café, Cuzco – Decadent and delicious

 

This is definitely one of my highlights in all of Peru.

Set in the courtyard of the Museum of Art in Cuzco on Plaza del Nazarena,  the elegant glass box is crisp and inviting.

We have read very good reviews on TA about the MAP café, but was not expecting this kind of deliciousness.
Absolutely everything was amazing, from the Pisco Sours (best in Peru!) through to the beautiful freshly baked bread, mains and desserts.

The service is friendly, professional and invasive. So happy that we went for an early lunch, as the restaurant filled up within 30min, and had sad patrons looking through the glass, and having to book for the following day.

 

So most vegetarians eat a lot of pasta, I’m not one of them. In fact I actually really dislike any pasta dish, it’s just a vehicle for sauce… a fattening carb vehicle.

In most restaurant however the vegetarian options are limited to pasta. MAP has a couple of other vegetarian options, but they had me at truffle perfume with this cannelloni. It was divine!!  The best pasta dish I have ever eaten, and probably just one of the top 5 best things I have ever eaten.

Also I have developed a slight obsession with Quinoa, and tried ordering as much Quinoa dishes as possible.

Put Quinoa and Truffle in the same dish and I’m sold. Desperately wishing that I could have that dish in South Africa, which means I’ll just have to practise my cooking skills to get it perfect.

 

The other dishes on the table were the Pork Adobe and the Chilli Pepper stuffed Lamb. Both of these were superb, but nothing compares to the Quinoa Truffle Cannelloni’s.

It was tough not to order all the dessert on offer, but the 3 we selected were the Sacha Inchi, Goat’s Cheese and honey Maki (yes – dessert sushi!!) and the deconstructed Suspiro Lemino. Last mentions was my favourite.

 

We decided to treat ourselves to this amazing culinary glass box on our last evening in Peru as well, but unfortunately they were fully booked – and rightly so.
This chef deserves a Michelin Star, and to be at the top of the TA list in Cuzco.

 

Do not miss this lovely setting and delicious food!

Until we eat again…

Le Soleil, Cuzco - The Fast-food of French cuisine

Aha, finally the time has come – and my fist restaurant is a bit of a shame, which after the owner’s petty comments and bad attitude on tripadvisor, has now turned into a big name and shame!

 

Whenever travelling I always have a look at restaurants on tripadvisor to see real-time opinions and reviews from “real-people”.

This French restaurant in the heart of Cuzco is rated as the number 1 in all of Cuzco – with many people raving about the interior of the restaurant, and claiming that you will struggle to find better French food, even in Paris! Now that is a bold statement to make.

To me this sounded like heaven! I love proper French food, and after traveling for between 24-18 hours, what could be more satisfying than a little bit of lush French cuisine?

 

This massive expectations we walked down the cobblestone street to Le Soleil. We were the only customers there, but thought perhaps we were early and this might be a pro, as it is not packed yet our food would be served a little quicker – we were starving.

 

The host and owner was very friendly and was happy to answer any questions about the menu, which looked rather yummy. And lucky me there was a veggie starter and main.

For starters we had the ginger pumpkin crème with truffle – this was really nice, nothing spectacular and no sign of the promised truffle, but a warming ginger flavour. Snails in butter and herb sauce – which was just that, nothing more, nothing less (presentation was lacking though). And the Avo Swilrs, this is avocado strips rolled and filled with cubed veggies such as tomato, cucumber and aubergine – a little bland, and actually a pretty presented four ingredient salad.

 

Mains were duck breast and I had ratatouille. The duck was nicely cooked, but no lush sauce or veggies to compliment this; and my ratatouille was pretty much a warm version of my starter, substituting the cucumber for baby marrow, and the avo for carrot.

 

Now maybe it’s just me, but I am 100% certain that it’s not, no-one goes to a restaurant and orders a main and expects just a chunk of protein, or a scoop of a cooked vegetables (and this comment is not only regarding Le Soleil – but I might as well rant about it now and get it over with).

Where is the harm in putting a portion of side veggies, salad, potato, sauce on a plate?? That’s right – no harm, in fact only goodness. You are ordering a meal after all. I see this “trend” sticking out it’s ugly little head in all the more restaurants, and frankly I think it’s ridiculous! Stop squeezing the money for your well-paying clients greedy restaurateurs! Tisk tisk tisk!

 

Anyway, back to our evening at Le Soleil. For dessert we had the chocolate fondant as someone on mention this to be the best fondant they’ve ever eaten; and the mango, tonka bean and passion fruit mousse – the passion fruit was super sour, you could taste nothing else, and also did not want to take a second bite for fear of burning a hole in your aorta with the sour acid ( a little dramatic, I know), surely the chef should taste what he puts on a plate? Unfortunately the fondant, which was supposed to be the king of the evening turned out to be a peasant in disguise. No rich chocolate lava flowing out when cutting open… An overcooked fondant for any restaurant is a no-no, and especially for a French restaurant, this is the mother of all no-no’s.

 

So all in all it was not the worst meal I’ve ever had, but most certainly not the best. There is not one thing that we ate that was exceptional or even great. I think due to the fact that this place received such amazing reviews it was an ever bigger disappointment, as we arrived with huge expectations.

In all honesty, the people that commented on that you could not find better French food, even in Paris – I’m having a sneaky feeling that they’ve probably never been to Paris, and the rest of the raving reviews might well be the owner himself, or his close friends… as we were the only table there for the evening. Does this sound like the kind of place that is the best in a city? Empty during the festive season? No, it does not.

 

Do not be fooled, give this a miss when in Cuzco.

 

Until we eat again…

Watch this space for the best and worst of Peru

Dear Reader,

Happiest of happy new year to each and all. Best wish for 2014.

I've been gone a while - but that you know.
I am back, and have a lot of reastaurant to praise and love, and just as many to name and shame.
Its not so much that I've been lazy, more jetlagged, and bombarded with work with immediate effect.
However, as mind is still in a completely different timezone, I will write in the middel of the night.

Soon I will reveal all about the good the bad and the ugly of Peru's restaurants, watch this space.
Patience dear reader, patience...

Untill we eat again...

And so ladies and gentlemen, friends, family and fellow foodies – the day has finally arrived!!
The last working day of 2013! Happy happy days!

Also it is the infamous Friday the 13^th – but not even this can get me down.

Early tomorrow morn’, before the break of dawn I’ll be on my way to the airport, en route to Peru.

I cannot contain my excitement anymore, I want to run wild and explore!!

I will hug any Llama I see, and eat all the delicious and unknown vegetarian delights that they have to offer.

No restaurant reviews today, and for the next couple of days, but I’ll be sure to post some review on Peruvian restaurants soon.

‘Tis this season of giving, and I would not dare leave you with nothing, so below are some of my favourite Llama clips, and helpful hints on how to be a great explorer, none of which have anything to do with food unfortunately…

 

The Llama Song

Llamas with hats

 

I wish you all happy holidays,

 

Until we eat again (in Peru)...

 

The Foodbarn, Noordhoek - Real Food, Simply Delicious

Take a drive along the coast of the Cape, and take a turn to Noodhoek, just off the street you’ll find the vibey Noodhoek Village that offers a pub, some touristy shops, swings and playthings for little children on the grass lawn and an old hotel. Look to your right, there you’ll see a sign above a door, reading The Foodbarn. Walk towards it. Step through the door.

Once inside you are swept away by the serene all white innards of this building, with just little touches of blue to remind you that you are in fact not lost in the arctic snow. Bliss.

Simplicity is key with décor, and to a certain extent with the food as well, even though you’ll never know as Franck Dangereux manages to conjure the most define and powerful flavours out of any ingredient. A true artist who can make 6 ingredients taste like 16. Perhaps this is the freshness of the ingredients, or just his sheer brilliance in the kitchen? Who knows! I think it might be the combination of the two that gives your palate the buzz.

We were presented with dazzling Springtime menu, filled with choices and flavours that makes you want to be a glut, and order for 2...

A lovely wine list (which is to be expected when dining in the Cape) as well as a selection of local craft beers. The service is efficient, personal and friendly, without being familiar and having you feel like you should pull up an extra chair. Extremely helpful and knows the dishes off by heart.

 

Usually I’d now proceed on dissecting what was eaten and what the menu offered – today however, I’ll rather just give you the menu and photos of the delicious and beautiful food, as we were 5 people, all ordering starters, mains and desserts, so it might take a while.

 What I can and will say, is that no-one had an inkling of unhappiness about any bite of food they took. No surprize really, as it is Franck’s restaurant. I would have liked more than one goats cheese fritter as a starter though – very small portion, but I was slightly starry eyed at the spring risotto, which very rarely happens to me when eating risotto (or any pasta). Food is plated elegantly without being over the top or disguising what exactly it is that you’re eating – what you see is what you get, just with much more flavour and perfection than you could imagine.

 

 I expected a little more from the dessert menu, nothing really drew me... but the Pear tart Tatin was the perfect end to the meal.

 

When I’m in Cape Town again, I’ll gladly drive around the coast to enjoy the beautiful view, on my way to The Foodbarn.

***Note – you’ll definitely have to book in advance!!

 

Until we eat again…

Waterkloof Wines, Somerset West - Heaven on Earth!

Close your eyes, and have your mind wonder to a secret little place of awe and beauty.

Imagine a glass cube on the top of a hill, overlooking a valley of vineyards, abundant vegetation and the majestic blue sea.

You have that?

Now – go visit Waterkloof Wines, and exceed your imaginations expectations.

The most amazing fireplace with specially made leather couches and small tables and chairs that compliment this stunning feature in the centre of the room, beside the open kitchen. This double volume ceiling and glass walls give a sense of openness and amazement.

True serenity and bliss.

Situated just outside Somerset West in the Cape, on Sir Lowrie's Pass, this prize winning architectural structure is a highlight in its surroundings. Yes, a little drive if you commute from Cape Town or Stellenbosch, but well worth the travel.

Waterkloof restaurant is still quite new compared to the other vineyard restaurants, but will soon be in the top 10 – guaranteed.

Waterkloof has only offer their own wines, which is great, as these wines are delightful and you really wouldn’t want any other wine. I think what a suprises me most of this restaurant are the prices. The wines are at cellar prices, and the food with all the details and expertize are half (or less) the price that you would pay at any of the top 10 restaurants, or well-known places in the Cape. The owner of this little piece of heaven on earth has a passion, and is making it a reality, offering all a glimpse at paradise, without ripping you off and charging you near insane prices.

And I haven’t even started on the food!

An absolute master in food, Gregory Czarnecki will ensure that you have a food experience that lingers on in your mind for months. His knowledge of food, and combinations of flavor, textures, technique and plating is jaw-dropping, every course unique and exciting. And catering for vegetarians in no problem, and these dishes are just as amazing. It is here that I again realized my love for good food and wine.

Think Lentil Velouté with beetroot, truffle foam and foie gras; Scallop Ceviche with cauliflower and curry; Spingbok Loin with parmesan custard, smoked potato and pumpkin gnocchi; Monkfish, wild mushroom and Iberico; and for desserts – Sablé Breton and Hazelnut, burnt honey and clementine marmalade sorbet; Carrot Sponge, butternut ice cream with white chocolate and celery cream; and a cheese platter with liquid shortbread, truffled honey and foie gras snow.

My mind goes a little blurry as I reminisce about the total decadence that is Waterkloof. So I think it’s best if pictures do the rest of the work, as words escape me…

Untill we eat again...

Casalinga, Muldersdrift - Feels like home

The Christmas tree goes up, the little nativity scene is pack out on a table, fragrant cinnamon scented candles are lit and Bony M is playing softly in the background “pa-rampa-pa-pam”…
Aaah, I love Christmas time.

(un)fortunately I can’t remember the last time we did all the above, as December is the one holiday that all the family member have, and we take this holiday to go and travel the world – hence the brackets around the (un). I absolutely love traveling and aspire to be a globe-trotter one day, if only I had a sponsor… Never the less, decorating a tree and having family or friends over for an exuberant Christmas lunch has a certain comforting element to it, a feeling of belonging.

We now have Christmas lunch with the entire family, my brothers’ wives and their parents included, a week or so before we go on holiday – and this year we opted for Casalinga in Muldersdrift.

Sunday’s are their busiest day by far, and the serve a set menu to help feed the masses.

A choice between 6 starters, and 8 mains, excluding any specials that they might have for the day, and then a tempting dessert “trolley” with a selection of treats. This always comes with a delightful freshly baked bread basket, with a variety of deliciousness, and a generous fresh table salad.

They are not that big on Vegetarians, but do offer one starter and one main for us herbivores.

Homemade Gnocchi with a light gorgonzola sauce, and the green lasagne was then obviously mine. I love their gnocchi – light and fluffy, unlike the little rubber bullets you buy in a packet to prepare at home. The lasagne is not bad – but I’m actually not a pasta fan at all, and this is a solid piece of 12 -14 layers of lasagne sheets with béchamel and basil pesto in-between, so this turns out to be extremely rich. And for a non-pasta loving vegetarian, two pasta dishes is not my ultimate.

A lovely fragrant tomato based mussel pot was on special, and this looked and smelled heavenly! Not one single bowls of this was left with a drop of sauce in, all was soaked up with a piece of bread en devoured. Spicy calamari, beef Carpaccio and chicken livers were also on display, but the mussel pot  took the gold for the starters.

Kingklip and salmon, slow roasted pork, a lamb shank and fillet with mushroom sauce all made an appearance for main course. I sat between two of my brothers who had the fillet and lamb shank respectively, but the clear winner was the lamb shank, literally falling off the bone in a seductive jus (easy to spot shank cooked properly on low heat over night). All dishes served with wilted spinach, medley of peppers and crispy roasted potatoes – all from the luscious veggie garden. I have such bad envy on this vegetable and herb garden, it’s not even funny.

Deciding on desserts, always results to a bargaining between 2 or 3 of us, so we can then all have a little taste of one another’s. Sometimes you win sometimes you lose. I had the floating island, which is usually like a slice of cloud floating on a delicate crème anglaise with a cluster of fresh fruit to add texture, was unfortunately overly sweet, with a crispy meringue… perhaps the pressures of having 500 - 600 guests in one sitting got to the dessert chef, and he confused the floating island with a Pavlova?

The BarOne cheesecake, lemon meringue pie and dark tiramisu were delightful, and the ice-cream and BarOne sauce yummy – just a perfect end to a meal – just goes to show, sometimes less is more. Never underestimate the simple things, as simply things done with great ingredients are simply gorgeous.

A last little touch – coffee. Good coffee. Great coffee.

You can’t get fresher coffee than this – as Casalinga proudly has their own coffee roastery on the grounds.

 The restaurant has a lovely warm, inviting, homey feeling, with thick dark wooden tables, wooden floors in some parts of the house and a couple of fireplaces burning happily away. We had the “living room” to ourselves, which was decorated festive with a sort of rugged elegance, of wood, pine kernels,  soft fairy lights and a touch of red and green festive ornaments. An absolute pleasure sitting on the couches sipping champagne having a laugh about old stories of when we were little. We also chose to have coffee on the snuggly couches, and I could have easily had a catnap right there and then.

Being so popular for lunch and functions alike, perhaps a restriction of 400 guests should be key, to avoid running out of some desserts and serving Pavlova meringue as a floating island?

Always offering excellent service and food of the highest standards, Casalinga rarely disappoints.

Happy December – I’m counting the days..

Until we eat again…